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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.